The barrel screws can be retained in several different ways, but if the original screws are used and you are over 35 in/lbs up to the 44 in/lb spec, they will not shoot loose. You can put a drop of nail polish on the clean dry threads or even a dab of loctite blue if you feel uneasy about it. Another good idea is to tighten them in and put a tiny index mark on the edge of the screw to line up with a mark on the receiver. I use correction white out paint for this. This lets you take a quick glance at the screws when cleaning and if you see the marks don't line up any more, you know its moved and needs retightening
As far as accuracy goes, there are several different reasons as to how the screws affect this. Because this switch barrel design exerts quite a bit more force between the barrel lip and the receiver than a pinned barrel or a threaded barrel, that juncture can cause a swelling or donut shaped area to appear in the bore just in front of the chamber as shown here...
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...leakage can occur past the bullet as it moves past this bulge. The only way to know for sure if that bulge is there is to push a slug through the bore and feel for the loose spot. I personally don't ever tighten to the 44 in/lb spec because of this. That spec is relative to the recommended torque for a screw that size and thread pitch, not the actual application of what its doing as far as clamp force. Manufacturers always put that higher value in for liability reasons and because it is a standard. Most often, when the torque gets reduced below 40 in/lbs, that donut dissapears. Before I started gluing in tenons and using a very low screw torque, I torqued the screws to 30-35 in/lbs without any issue, just put a dab of loctite blue on them.
Another issue that can arise with too high torque on those screws in some rifles is that you can end up with extraction issues. Take a look at the direction of force on the portion of tenon flats machined for those screws in this pic...
....the front of the chamber is only a few thousandths of an inch bigger than the casing. As it gets dirty from carbon and lead it can even get tighter, which is a good thing up to a certain point. That blue highlighted area is where the force of the screws line up and a small deformation there can cause the chamber to go slightly out of round. When rimfire casings expand from high pressure/firing, they rebound in size about .0005" of an inch under the chamber size that forms it. An out of round condition, or reverse taper in the chamber can then make extraction difficult when the fire formed brass is being removed..
Gluing in the barrel with Loctite 609 bearing retainer compound is a good option to choose if your not intending on switching out the barrel often. Its easily reversable with a heat gun. Best of all, it seals up any gap areas between the tenon and the receiver and makes the fit more solid, as if it was a one piece construction or threaded together. I use no more than 20 in/lbs on the screws when the tenon is glued and end up with a very stress free joint.
One last point about those barrel scews to keep in mind is that if you are epoxy bedding the rifle, make sure you use the same torque on those screws as you intend to shoot the rifle with when you bed it. The receiver does go out of round a bit from all the force of those screws pulling on the lower side of it. The bedding will conform to this shape and you want to duplicate that out of roundness exactly the same way whenever you remove or replace the reciever into the bedded stock.
